The New York Times, January 28, 1894, p.21:
BEAUTIFUL PACIFIC ISLANDSATTRACTIVE FEATURES OF THE POLYNESIAN GROUP.
Honolulu, the Chief City of Hawaii, Its Situation, Inhabitants, Population, and Superb Scenery--Former Rulers of this Ocean Kingdom--Habits and Customs of the People--The Iolani Palace--The Bishop Museum and Its Treasures.
It has not been an unusual thing for people to mix up all Polynesia, Micronesia, and Meanesia, but the recent events which have attracted so much attention to this group must have cleared the atmosphere somewhat of these errors, and probably most readers of newspapers have located the islands in their proper place, near the centre of the great Pacific Ocean...
The principal islands are situated between 18 degrees 50 minutes and 22 degrees 20 minutes north latitude and 154 degrees 53 and 100 degrees 15 minutes west longitude. They are about equally distant from all the continental masses, being probably the most isolated group in the world.
They were probably first visited by Juan de Gaetano in 1542 [Juan Gaetano, 1555 more often suggested], as he speaks of "las islas del rey," which he locates at 900 leguas (about 2,000 miles) west of Mexico. This discovery must have found its way into some of the maps of the eighteenth century, or even earlier charts.
In all likelihood their existence was known to Capt. Cook. At any rate, he did not evince any great surprise when he first came across them. On Jan. 18, 1778, however, he rediscovered the group while sailing for our northwest coast in the Resolute and the Discovery.
They were visited in 1786 by Portlock and Dixon, and about the same time by La Perouse. In 1792-3 Vancouver spent considerable time there.
Only eight of the twelve islands are inhabited, the rest being mere rocks, and their area and highest elevations are as follows:
Hawaii........
Maui...........
Oahu...........
Kauai..........
Molokai......
Lanai...........
Niihau.........
Kahoolawe..
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Square Miles.
4,210
760
600
590
270
150
97
63
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Height.
13,805
10,032
4,030
4,800
3,500
3,000
800
1,450
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The combined area, therefore, of these islands would be about 6,740 square miles, somewhat less than the 6,900 square miles of the State of New Jersey.
In 1890 the census of the group gave as the total number of inhabitants 92,000. This number has doubtless been very largely increased by the great numbers of contract laborers which have been taken there since that time. The nationalities represented are as follows: Native and mixed, 45,000; Americans, 3,000; Germans, 1,500; Portuguese, 12,000; Chinese, 19,000; Japanese, 8,500; South Seas, 500; other nationalities, 3,500...
Physically, the islands appear to be a double line of volcanoes. This is a feature common to many island series, and it is also noticeable in some volcanic ranges in the continents... Perhaps the oldest of the group are the Islands of Kauai and its companion Niihau, but these two islands have suffered so much by erosion as well as by subterranean catastrophes that it becomes difficult to point out their exact relations to the rest of the group.
Studying the islands one by one, it is found that Hawaii has the ends of these two parallel lines well represented in Kohala and Kea on the one side, and Hualalai and Loa on the other. These two lines have been distinguished by the names of their great terminal cones as the "Loa Range" and the "Kea Range."
The Kea Range may be said to be continued back through Maui and Molokai to the northeast mountain of Oahu, and then possibly to Kauai. The Loa Range through Kahoolawe and Lanai to the southwest to Niihau; though these last points in each line are extremely problematical. The theory of their formation as based on their apparent relative ages is that the line of fracture in the earth's crust, which they undoubtedly mark, has been advancing from the northwest to the southeast, and that as it advanced the craters which were left behind became extinct...
The character of all the islands is given to them by the volcanic forces to whose power they are due. The highest part of the Islands is generally in the interior, with a gradual slope toward the sea. The natives make use of this invariable central position of the mountain mass in speaking of the direction of any given object. Thus "mauka" means on the side toward the mountain, or up hill; and "makai" means toward the sea. These words almost completely do away with compass directions, and the foreign visitor, after he becomes accustomed to the words, uses them from preference. It does seem strange, however, even after some stay upon the islands, to be told that he find something that he is looking for "upon a table on the mauka side of the room."
There are two other words which the stranger learns very quickly. They are "Aloha" and "pilikia." Aloha is the universal greeting. It is expected from everybody, whether acquainted or not, and really means "my love to you." It is remnant of an old, cordial, and good-natured custom of the natives, which one is loth to sea given up. It is pleasant, as you pas along the road on foot or on horseback, to be met with a smile and this cheerful greeting, which is even a little more friendly than the "Buenos dias, Senor" of Spanish countries.
The other word ought to be adopted into the English language; its comprehensiveness would exactly suit the Yankee mind. Of course this very fact makes it rather harder to define, but one might say that anything in the nature of hard luck, or which might lead to difficulty or peril or hardship, is a "pilikia." Your hat goes flying across the street before the tradewind and you chase it with vigor... the partial sympathy which this word intimates is the feeling of at least a few bystanders. You ask a cautious question about a horse you are mounting for the first time, and the stableman instantly seeks to relieve your feelings by saying "No pilikia," meaning that the horse will give you no trouble...
Honolulu, the chief city of the Hawaiian Islands, ang by good right the commercial emporium of the North Pacific, is situated upon the southern shore of the island of Oahu. The average traveler gets all of his impressions of the islands of this group either from a short stay in this place or during a hurried trip to the great volcanoes upon the Island of Hawaii. From one point of view, this is rather unjust to the islands, but from another it might be said that "as goes Honolulu so go the rest of the islands."
The name of the harbor describes it exactly. As translated from the old native tongue, it means "fair haven," and such it is. As your vessel passes in from the long, steady swell of the Pacific, which you have been enjoying for several days previously it is to be supposed, nothing can be more delightful than to pass into the smooth water to the leeward of the island and watch the morning sun light up the glorious circle of hills which form the background of this little bit of tropical fairyland...
One of the first things that the traveler should do is to climb Mount Tantalus. This is a long, easy ridge, back of the city, which will not trouble a good walker, if it is taken easily, as it should be if the views are to be enjoyed. The road to the crater of Punch Bowl is good, and this little extinct tufa cone should be visited on the way up.
Upon the return, just at the point where the main ridge joins the northern side of the Punch Bowl, a footpath will be noticed, which should be followed. As you gradually rise a series of beautiful views will be obtained at the different resting places.
The city itself lies just below you, and looks like a large country village overgrown with splendid tropical trees; for it is almost hidden from view by the gardens which surround nearly every house, and which form one of its peculiar and most interesting charms.
Off to the east lies Waikiki, with its royal parks and the waving palms beyond, on the edge of a silver line of surf which marks one of the finest bathing beaches in the world.
In the valley to the west of the ridge one of the peculiar sights of these islands is to be seen in the taro patches, with their bright, waving leaves.
The principal article of diet among the natives is the "poi," which is prepared from the taro root. The Kanaka, or native, is very fond of this vegetable, and from its nutritious character it has become the staff of live to him. It is really all the natives seem to want, and if you add to this a quantity of dried fish, or squid, they can live in luxury.
The manufacture of this article of food is carried on by the natives very much in the same manner that they have always been accustomed to do it, and merits a word of description. The taro is an edible root, which grows best in an inundated bed. The proper conditions are secured by building a series of terraces, with raised edges, so arranged that the water will pass from one terrace to the next below, always leaving enough water to keep the soil covered to the depth of a few inches. This method of treatment is not absolutely necessary, as there is a form of upland taro which does not need so much water, but the best taro is always raised in this way.
The terrace is worked over several times during the eighteen or twenty months which it takes the root to mature. This process is necessary to keep the mud in which the plant is growing from getting sour. When the root has reached its full growth, it is about the size of a large sweet potato. It is not edible in the raw state, as it will blister the mouth if eaten before it is cooked.
After it is steamed or boiled, it is commonly served on the table as a vegetable, and tastes not unlike a sweet potato. The natives take it while warm and pound it up with a little water into a thick pasty mass, which is done up into packages and wrapped up in "ti" leaves. Among the natives the leaves of this plant take the place of brown wrapping paper. In this shape it is known as "peiai."
It is obtained from dealers in this condition, and, as it keeps well, can be placed in the cupboard until needed. Just before using, it is mixed with water and stirred to the proper consistency, according to the taste of the user. The natives usually let it stand for a few days after this, in order to allow it to ferment partially, as it suits them rather better when it is slightly sour.
It tastes somewhat like sour starch paste, and some people can never get over their aversion to it. But when taken with a little dried, salted, and toasted squid, it is no doubt an "acquired taste," yet a pleasant one...
The native way of eating taro is interesting. In fact, a group of natives arranged picturesquely around a large calabash of "poi" is always a pleasant sight. It is then that the native is himself. Conversation flows freely, and the best of good feeling prevails. They are always ready for it at any hour of the day or night...
After Tantalus, the next excursion should be made early in the morning, as the clouds will interfere with the views later in the day. Leaving the hotel at 6:30 A. M. and driving in the delicious morning air, the traveler will find much to please and entertain him on the road out Nuuanu Valley to the Pali... The botanist will be delighted at every step, and the lover of scenery will be charmed as each turn in the road reveals new vistas, each quite as beautiful as the last.
As the traveler passes to the upper part of the valley and the dark lava walls seem to be drawing closer and closer together, its impressiveness increases...
Suddenly you find yourself fighting the force of the strong trade winds, which blow through the gap with violence at all times. Then, as you round a sharp corner, you find that the road turns quickly to the right and descends by a cut upon the face of the precipice, and then only does the full view of the Kaneohe Valley break upon you in all its beauty... It is believed that all of the valley in sight from this point formed part of an enormous crater, the greater portion of which has split away and subsided.
The Pali, or precipice which extends on either side for several miles, marks the position of the inside walls of this gigantic affair, and the condition of the valley up which you have passed seems to indicate that it was formed by a lava flow which passed out between the walls of a fissure which must have rent the mountain sides some time previous to the great catastrophe which, in all likelihood, ended its activity...
It was here that the victorious Kamehameha I. defeated the hosts of this island and then drove them over the cliffs. This final victory established his supremacy over the whole group, and for the first time in their history they were united under one King.
This occurred in 1795, and from that time on until 1872 the line of Kamehameha controlled the islands. With the death of Kamehameha V., this royal line ceased to exist.
In the City of Honolulu a great deal of time could be spent most profitably... A drive out to Waikiki and a dip in the surf is an experience which is well worth trying. The peculiar feature about the beach, which will surely attract attention, is the softness of the sand. Formerly, when the surf bathers used to frequent this spot and spend hours sporting in the waves, it must have been a beautiful sight; but now a surf-board is a rare sight, and a good surf rider is a still rarer one...
Every one will certainly want to go to the Iolani Palace, formerly the residence of the Kings and Queens, now the State apartments of the provisional Government. The main entrance hall still contains the portraits of the former sovereigns, and the old throne room was retained in very much the same condition as it was before the revolution of last January...
Chief of all the attractions of the City, however, is the Bishop Museum, which is often missed through ignorance of its existence or lack of adequate information as to its contents. It was erected to the memory of Bernice Pauahi Bishop, the wife of C. R. Bishop, the leading banker of Honolulu. It contains the most complete and valuable collection of Polynesian antiquities to be found anywhere in the world. Here are to be found most of the Kamehameha treasures and many choice things obtained by a careful search all over the islands...
One of the things which every visitor should do is to take a drive around a part of the island. Armed with letters of introduction it is easy to have a delightful time; but as there is only one hotel outside of Honolulu, unless you are prepared to camp out it might not be so pleasant...
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